Ask any fly-fisherman and they will tell you that there is nothing more rewarding than catching a fish on a fly you tie. To make your own gear and have success with what you made, is the ultimate rewarding experience. Fishing handlines are no different. These compact fishing kits are fun to make, lightweight, and versatile. Over the years I have carved many fishing handlines in my classes and as a result, I have them everywhere. I keep one in my car in case I find a good fishing hole and don’t have my rod. I bring a small, lightweight one on backpacking trips. I even have one tucked in my hydration bladder bag for those long runs by the river. Handlines also have a practical use for survival kits, jigging while ice fishing, and sinking live bait off a canoe. They are simple to make, as they only require a few wood cutting tools and easily obtainable fishing tackle. There are a few different styles of handlines, but my favorite way to make them is by carving a wooden fish shape. The open mouth and forked tail serve a practical use in holding the line, and of course, they look cool!
What you need:
Wood carving knife
Saw
Sandpaper (course and fine)
Braided Fishing Line- I use 25 lb test
Monofilament- I use 4 lb test for trout and panfish, and 6 lb test for bass
1 Barrel Swivel
1 Snap Swivel
A Piece of Scrap Wood- I use about 1/8th inch thick, and 4 inches long.
1 Hook- I use size 8 barbless carp hooks
Step 1: Obtain and Process Wood
I always appreciate scrap boards that are a bit too short for any carpenters. I end up with piles of their scraps and usually get exotic woods. You can also cut any dead wood and split it out to a flat board. I have found very interesting patterns in wood by doing this. You can even plan a knot in the wood to be the fish’s eye!
Step 2: Cut the V’s
Essentially, a handline is a piece of wood with two “V” notches on either end for the line to wrap around. I make these notches by sawing the ends first, then smoothing them out with a knife tip. If you have access to a vice, use it while sawing. I usually end up holding the wood down with my knee and making sure I have a good cut resistant glove on my hand supporting the wood in case my saw slips. After both V’s are cut with the saw, I put the knife tip at the bottom of the notch and push the knife outwards making sure not to cut towards myself (especially my face). I find that I have the best control if I put my thumbs on the spine of the blade. I go after anything that has saw marks, or edges that are square. The very bottom of the V will be hard to carve out but you can get that later with the sandpaper.
Step 3: Form the Fish
For me, the most fun part is when I get to carve the fish shape. I usually make them more abstract than realistic and carve a few fins on either side. Use your imagination. If you want a more realistic fish shape, you can draw it on the wood and cut it out with a saw. For the tail, I carve a wider V on the top and bottom. For the head, I round off the square edges on the end of the wood to form the lips.
Step 4: Sanding
I start by rolling the sandpaper up into a cylinder and sanding the inside of the mouth and tail very smooth. Fishing line does not like 90 degree angles so I make sure all the edges are rounded off. Make sure to sand all of the saw marks at the bottom of the V. I sand the rest of the handline well, as I like them to be really smooth. When it's all smoothed out, get it wet to “lift” the grain and let it dry. Sand the whole thing again with very fine sandpaper and it will be (and stay) incredibly polished. I finish most of my wood carvings off with salve made of bear fat and beeswax, but any oil will serve to protect the wood and make the grain stand out.
Step 5: Tying on the Line
Braided line is the least prone to getting tangled with a handline, so that's my go-to line. I use the mouth and tail to hold the line and wrap it around about 40 times. I then tie on a small barrel swivel to connect a 3 foot piece of monofilament. At the end, you can either tie on a hook, or a snap swivel depending on if you choose to use an artificial lure or live bait. I use the improved clinch knot for all knots on the handline, even when I tie the braided line directly to the wooden fish.
It may take a few casts to get the groove of things with this style of fishing. But once you get past the learning curve, which may or may not involve a few emotional breakdowns, you will get the hang of it! I let out a good length of line off the handline and put the wood in my pocket. Then I “stack” the line by pulling the braided line through my hands and letting it fall into a pile on top of itself. The biggest rule with handlines is that if the line can find something to tangle itself on, it will tangle. If you are on relatively flat, stickless ground next to a river (a sandy bank is perfect) then the stacking will be no issue.
To cast, I spin the lure around in a circle a few times and let it go. You can become well practiced with this method and become very accurate. After a few casts, I can set my distance by either reeling in a bit or letting out more line. That way, every time the lure is thrown it will fall relatively in the same place. You can do a classic worm and bobber, or like me, use an artificial spoon lure. I cast out, and pull it back slowly hand over hand until I get the lure back.
When you get a bite, just keep pulling it in! A rod provides constant resistance and flex so it's easier to fight the fish and not lose it. If you stop pulling in the fish, it gives it more of a chance to get off the hook or snap the line. Pinched barbs make it easier to remove the fish for catch and release and also easier to get it out of your skin in case of an accident.
Handlines make amazing gifts, can be stored almost anywhere, and offer an all-in-one fishing kit whenever you need it! Get out there and catch some fish!
Tim Swanson
Owl Eyes Wilderness Survival
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